Sarees

ANDHRA PRADESH

VENKATGIRI SAREE

Venkatagiri Sari is a sari style woven in Venkatagiri of Nellore district in the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. In the days during Velugoti dynasty in early 1700s, they were mostly weaved for queens, royal women and Zamindaris. The saris are made from fine cotton and the most significant is the use of zari. The Venkatagiri sari has different varieties like, Venkatagiri 100, Venkatagiri-putta and Venkatagiri-silk, with the Venkatagiri 100 being popular of all.

Other popular sarees in Andhra Pradesh are Mangalagiri Silk saris, Uppada Silk saris, Chirala saris, Bandar saris, Bandarulanka, Kuppadam saris, Dharmavaram silk sari.

 

ARUNACHAL PRADESH

APATANI

The Apatani weave comes from the Apatani tribe of Arunachal Pradesh living at Ziro, the headquarters of lower Subansiri district.

The Apatani community weaves its own textiles for various occasions, including rituals and cultural festivals.The woven fabric of this tribe is known for its geometric and zigzag patterns and also for its angular designs. The tribe predominantly weaves shawls known as jig-jiro and jilan or jackets called supuntarii. The people here use different leaves and plant resources for organic dying the cotton yarns in their traditional ways. Only women folk are engaged in weaving.

The traditional handloom of this tribe is a type of loin loom, which is called Chichin, and is similar to the traditional handloom of the Nyishi tribe. It is portable, easy to install and operated by a single weaver, especially the female members of the community.

 

ASSAM

MUGA SILK SAREE

Assam is famous for its silk handloom and the weavers’ expertise in different types of silk like Eri, Muga, Pat and many others. Muga silk is one of it’s popular contribution to the history of sarees. Muga means yellowish in Assamese. Unlike usual sarees, some of Muga sarees would have two parts – one draped from the waist downwards. And the upper portion has one end tucked at the waist while rest is draped around the upper body.

 

BIHAR

BHAGALPURI SILK SAREE

Bhagalpuri silk or Tussar silk is a dying style of silk sarees and other clothes from Bhagalpur, Bihar in India. This material is used for making sarees named as Bhagalpuri Sari. Bhagalpur is also known as “silk city” of India. Bhagalpur has numerous mulberry orchards to produce tussar silk. Nathnagar is a place where Bhagalpuri silk is mainly processed. Not only sari kurta suit is also made from Bhagalpuri silk.

Other than above, also popular are Khadi Womens’s sarees, and Madhubani Designer sarees from Bihar.

 

CHHATISHGARH

KOSA SILK SAREE

Kosa silk is a type of Tussar silk which is basically produced in central India in Chattisgarh region. Kosa silk is known for its comfort and popular in other countries. Kosa silk is known for it’s sturdiness and is preferred to pure silk in the state of Chattisgarh. Korba and Champa in Chattisgarh are two places in India where Kosa Silk is highly produced. The Kosa Silk produced in ‘Champa’ is treated as the best silk all over the world. Kosa silk is known for it’s soft texture and purity, known for it’s dual golden brownish look, it is available naturally in shades of pale golden and dull golden brown.

 

GUJARAT

PATOLA

Patola is a double ikat woven sari, usually made from silk, made in Patan, Gujarat, India. The word patola is the plural form; the singular is patolu. They are very expensive, once worn only by those belonging to royal and aristocratic families. These saris are popular among those who can afford the high prices. Velvet patola styles are also made in Surat. Patola-weaving is a closely guarded family tradition.

The way of draping saree in Gujarat is called Siddha pallu drape. Border heavy sarees from other parts of India like Banarasi sarees, Kanjivaram sarees and Baluchari sarees would look aesthetic when draped in the Gujarati way.

 

HARYANA

PANJA

Known for rich handloom tradition, the town of Panipat in Haryana produces Panja, an interesting weaving technique that gets its name from the tool used in the weaving process - panja. It is primarily used for durries and rugs that are found in almost every village home in Haryana.  The warp is almost always cotton, while the weft can be both cotton and wool. The panja tool is used to beat the weft threads to set it tightly in the warp.  Panja fabrics are made from thick threads and feature beautiful and usually complicated patterns.

 

HIMACHAL PRADESH

KULLUVI PATTU

Kulluvi Pattu is traditional form of woolen sari worn in Himachal Pradesh, similar variation is also worn in Uttarakhand. The usual saree where we make plates and insert at waist region, here same plates and entire saree would be dropped from shoulder level. There would be two ends coming from back over the shoulders. The front part is tied to to back parts at these ends using a necklace type item called Gaachi. A rope made of cloth called Bumni is used like belt just above waist to keep the costume tight.

 

JAMMU AND KASHMIR

PASHMINA SAREE

Pashmina The finest wool in the world .

Pashmina is trimmed from the special bread of goat known as changthangi which are indigenous to higher altitudes of Himalayas towards Tibet, Nepal and Ladakh. Pashmina is very soft, Light and exceptionally very warm. Its feels like butter and is a luxury to have a piece of it. Marvelous 100% Pure Pashmina/Cashmere Wrap with  Jama Hand  Embroidery(Sozni)  from Kashmir.

 The skillfully handwoven Pashmina shawl features the meticulous efforts of the skillful artisans and an intricate hand embroidery spread gracefully in a heritage Jama design. Pashmina shawl is a match with every outfit, making it ideal to drape warmly across the shoulders.

 

JHARKHAND

KUCHAI

Kuchai silk is produced mainly in Kharsawan and Seraikela in Jharkand. The cocoon for Kuchai silk is grown on Sal and Arjun trees. The state also produces another variety, Ghicha silk which is a by-product of Tussar silk. The sarees made of Ghicha silk gets a raw texture as the silk is manually reeled from cocoons making it uneven.

Jharkhand’s tribe-centric culture has major influence in the saree patterns, often with traditional paintings or prints demonstrating tribal dances and festivals on them. Women generally prefer to wear sarees here. Women belonging to well off families prefer to wear sarees made of variants of Tussar silk. However, tribal women of the state go for the traditional attire of Panchi (lower garment) and Parhan (upper covering).

 

KARNATAKA

ILKAL SAREE

Ilkal sari is a traditional form of sari which is a common feminine wear in India. Ilkal sari takes its name from the town of Ilkal in the Bagalkot district of Karnataka state, India. Ilkal saris are woven using cotton warp on the body and art silk warp for border and art silk warp for pallu portion of the sari. The uniqueness of sari is joining of the body warp with pallu warp with a series of loops locally called as TOPE TENI technique. There four different traditional designs produced – Chikki Paras, Gomi, and recently modified traditional design Gayathri.

Other popular sarees in Karnataka are Mysore silk, Molakalmuru Sari, Sulebhavi sari.

 

KERALA

KASAVU SAREE

Accompanied by a thick and glossy gold border, this saree is worn on very important occasions such as for religious ceremonies, during Onam festivities and of course, by Hindu brides for weddings as well.

The word ‘Kasuvu’ refers to the golden brocade that lies along the edges of these sarees. However, keeping up with the times, it has diversified to include colours and artificial thread. These ethnically rooted sarees of India are mesmerising the globe through its traditional essence and simple elegance of nature patterns like birds and flowers used with a golden border.

Other popular sarees in Kerala are Balarampuram, Mundum Neriyathum, Mayilati silk, Kannur cotton, Kalpathi silk saris, Maradaka silk, Samudrikapuram silk and cotton, Kasargod.

 

MADHYA PRADESH

CHANDERI SAREE

Chanderi sari is a traditional sari made in Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh, India. Chanderi saris are produced from three kinds of fabric: pure silk, Chanderi cotton and silk cotton. Traditional coin, floral art, peacocks and geometric designs are woven into different Chanderi patterns. The saris are among the finest in India and are known for their gold and silver brocade or zari, fine silk, and opulent embroidery.

Other sarees popular in Madhya Pradesh are Maheshwari in Maheshwar, Dhokra silk.

 

MAHARASHTRA

PAITHANI SAREE  

Paithani saree is the most popular saree of Maharashtra. Now, if you ask one to explain about a saree, where to start and where to end. Too many features. Lets talk about one of the interesting feature of this saree. It would look alike both sides. Real paithani sarees can be characterized by the fact that they would always have one of the common motifs of lotus, peacocks, vines, flowers, and parrots. These are made of zari and silk thread. As these are hand woven sarees, no two sarees would be similar, they may look same on the surface but there will be slight variations. It is also called Marathi wedding saree and was adorned by Mughals, Marathas and Nizams.

Other popular sarees are Uppada Silk, Banarasi Silk Saree, Kanjeevaram Silk Saree, Kohlapuri Saree, Kota Silk Saree, Chanderi Silk saree.

 

MANIPUR

The traditional dress worn in Manipur by women are Inaphi, Phanek, Mayek Naibi, Lai Phi and Chin Phi and Potloi. In these, Inaphi is more like a shawl covering upper portion of the body. Under Inaphi, a new trending type of item came with name Rani Phi which includes the use of silk threads, modern dyes and different motifs to the traditional cotton inaphi.

 

MEGHALAYA

ERI SILK SAREE

Eri silk (Khasi: Ryndia) is the product of the domesticated silkworm Samia ricini, found mainly in North East India and some part of China and Japan. It was imported to Thailand in 1974.^[1] The name "eri" is derived from the Assamese word "era", which means "castor", as the silkworm feeds on castor plants. Another type of eri silk is "Ailanthus silk moth", refers to the host plant, Borkesseu, Ailanthus excelsa, practiced in China. Eri silk is also known as endi or errandi in India. The woolly white silk is often referred to as the fabric of peace when it is processed without killing the silkworm. This process results in a silk called Ahimsa silk. Moths leave the cocoon and then the cocoons are harvested to be spun. The eri silkworm is the only completely domesticated silkworm other than Bombyx mori.

 

MIZORAM

MIZO SILK SAREE

Puan is a piece of cloth worn like a skirt, is the national dress of the state of Mizoram. Traditionally, Puan is two pieces, woven separately backstrap looms and later sewn together. The sarees famous as Mizoram silk sarees usually use Puan style of bordering and wrapping around the body.

 

NAGALAND

CHAKHESANG SHAWL

Naga shawls also known as Chaksheshang shawl gets the GI tag. Geographical indication. Naga shawls are traditional shawls with a distinctive pattern (primarily in red and black wool) made by various Naga tribes from Nagaland in India. Woven on backstrap looms, the design incorporates colours and motifs which hold deep symbolic meaning, and commemorates the history of the Chakhesang people. Each colour and motif in the Rira is significant. The central panel design represents ancient Naga weapons. The broad red bands on both sides represent the blood shed of forefathers. Black dashes on the red band represent the realization of Khezhanuo khruo, or tributes to the warriors. The large black bands separated by narrow red stripes represent the perpetual grappling with hardship. The white squares represent ancestral tools made of animal bone. The fine bright green line represents victory.

 

ODISHA

SAMBALPURI IKAT OR BANDHA SAREE

The moment we talk about sarees in Odisha, what strikes are those special fabric used to dress the idols in the famous Lord Jagannath temple. On these sarees, there is strong influence of Lord Krishna and hence gets expressed in form of temple borders, traditional colours, mythological designs on the sarees. And you say say – these are the most popular Sambalpuri Saree or Bandha saree. Odisha is famous for both silk and cotton sarees.

Other popular sarees in Odisha include Sonepuri Silk (Bomkal from Ganjam), Patta from Berhampur, Khandua from Cuttack and Nuapatna, Kotpad from Koraput, Ikat from Samabalpur, Sonepur and Boudh, Habaspuri from Kalahandi, Dongria from Rayagada and Kalahandi, Saktaput from Bargarh.

PUNJAB

KHES

Khes is a thick woven cloth made on a handloom. Khes weaving was a traditional textile art associated with rural Punjab. The craft of khes-weaving had cultural significance in rural areas. Women in villages used to weave khes. Women in the villages of Punjab have been weaving khes as part of their wedding trousseau for years.

Spans of khes were traditionally woven in pairs and then stitched together. Khes pieces from the town of Rampur, Uttar Pradesh, were larger and available in sizes of up to 6 by 9 feet (2.75 by 1.8 m).  Khesi ^[19] is a wider variant of khes, for use in making sheets.

 

RAJSATHAN

KORA DARIA OR KOTA DORIYA

Kota Doria or Kota Doriya is the name of a light weight fabric made of tiny woven squares (khat) which is still hand woven on traditional pit looms in Kaithoon near Kota in Rajasthan and in some of the surrounding villages. Kota Doriya Sarees are made of pure cotton and silk and have square like patterns known as khats on them. The chequered weave of a Kota sari is very popular. They are very fine weaves and weigh very less. Since the weavers had come from Mysore, the fabric produced was called kota masuriya.

Also popular in Rajasthan are Leheriya sarees, Rajasthani Chunri sarees, Rajasthani Print Saree, Rajasthani Embroidery Sarees, Gota Work Saree, Bandhani Saree.

 

SIKKIM

LEPCHAS

The Lepcha have their own independent and unique dress for both men and women. It is colourful, attractive but not showy. When in groups, the Lepchas in their dress look picturesque. The Lepchas developed their own dress from time immemorial for both men and women. A race once with their own Lepcha kings, chieftains, and high priests and with their own independent old and rich language, literature, culture, and civilization, the Lepcha also boast their own unique dress.

 

TAMILNADU

KANCHIPURAM SILK SAREE

Featuring royal texture and glossy temperament these sarees are crafted with utmost precision and care. These vivid and luxuriant coloured sarees define the cultural soil that has christened the graciously designed contrast borders with nuances of South Indian ethnicity.

The showcasing of rich heritage is done through the typical theme embellished on the sarees consisting of motifs like moon, chariots, peacocks, parrots, swans, lions, coins, mangoes, leaves, jasmine buds correlating with nature which captivates one’s senses at once.

The astounding texture, lustre, sturdiness and finesse is due to the weaving of the refined Mulbary silk threads. Adorn the well crafted and detailed Kanjeevaram saree and bask in the distinct regal glory of Indian ethnic beauty.

Other popular sarees in Tamil Nadu are Arani silk, Chettinad saris, Kumbakonam Sari, Thirubuvanam Sari, Coimbatore cotton sarees, Salem silk sarees, Chinnalampattu or Sungudi, Kandangi, Rasipuram silk saris, Koorai, Arni silk sari, Chennai sarees, Karaikudi sarees, Madurai cotton saris, Tiruchirappalli saris, Nagercoil saris, Thoothukudi Sari, Thanjavur saris, Tiruppur sarees.

 

TELANGANA

POCHAMPALLY OR PUTTAPAKA SAREE

Pochampally Saree or Pochampalli Ikat is a saree made in Bhoodan Pochampally, Yadadri Bhuvanagiri district, Telangana State, India. They have traditional geometric patterns in Ikat style of dyeing. The intricate geometric designs find their way into sarees and dress materials. The Indian government’s official airplane company, Air India, has its cabin crew wear specially designed Pochampally silk sarees.

 

TRIPURA

LAISINGPHEE

The lasingphee is a quilt cotton textile with weaving done on a back strap or loin loom that are exceptionally warm and supple. This quilt material has an internal layer of cotton, which is packed at regular gaps flanked by the parallel strips of weft cloth.

In Assam bamboo sticks are every now and then used to stuff as an alternative to cotton. Weavers of Cachar district are highly skilful to prepare the quilts. The lasingphee in addition is made in Manipur to protect from chill of winter. The range items handcrafted from this material are quilt, shawl, scarf and bed sheet, mat and gown. Every design has a tradition behind it, related with special festivals, dances, ceremonies.

 

UTTRAKHAND

PANCHACHULI

The Panchachuli cooperative came into existence in 1990. Today over eight hundred women from a total of thirty-two villages in the region are involved in the processing of raw materials, and the production of high-quality woven and knitted products.

The main weaving center is in Almoa, where around 300 women from surrounding villages work. The Panchachuli women weavers use sheep and merino wool, in addition to pashmina and silk – all of the wools are woven and knitted by hand, and only natural ingredients are used in the dyes.

 

UTTAR PRADESH

JAMDANI

The main centers of Jamdani weaving in Uttar Pradesh are Tanda (Fyzabad district) and Banaras. Jamdanis are very thinly textured muslins (white thin cloth) with floral, bird and animal motifs which are woven on the loom. The warp is unbleached gray yarn and the motifs are woven with bleached white yarn. At Banaras the craftsperson use gold thread in addition to the bleached and unbleached white threads. The finest Banaras muslins are called Kasivastras. Tanda fabrics are exceptionally frail and only white yarn is used for the weaving. The threads used for decoration are not cut at the edges, but are left hanging in the spool and then introduced into the figured pick.

 

WEST BENGAL

BALUCHARI

These exquisite silk sarees pallu’s are covered by the scenes of mythological epics Ramayana and Mahabharat. The square blocks on the border are decorated by the thread embroidered motifs.

Swarnachari is a variety of Baluchari sarees weaved in zari. These sarees are a staple of women in West Bengal. The extensive designs on baluchari silk saree take huge efforts which is why these are one of the most expensive sarees in the market.